Thursday 10 October 2013

Down safe, but no summit

The last five days have been a roller coaster of emotions as we have battled with heavy snows and high winds on our summit bid. Ultimately being defeated at ~7200m just below C4.

After leaving BC we were marooned in C1 for 24hrs as unexpectedly heavy snows (about 1m) fell throughout the mountain making movement upwards to C2 through the icefall exceptionally hazardous.  The Sherpas were marooned at C2 and were very lucky when an avalanche sweeping down the main face of Manaslu missed their tents by only 5m. 



After waiting 24hrs for the mountain to settle, we teamed up with another group to try and open the route to C2.  After a long and rather frightening day (MID for Rob for an epic  traverse through the seracs, breaking trail through waist deep snow in places) we eventually met with the sherpas at C2 and spent a night.  Unfortunately the route to C3 was under heavy snow and a collapsed serac barred the original route.  With 200m of fixed rope the route around the serac was found and the route cleared to C3 where the team spent a very windy night.

On the morning of the 9th the team were hanging on the weather forecast hoping the winds would lessen to allow movement on the mountain.  Marc the weather man came up trumps again, predicting decreasing winds throughout the day.  Armed with this we set out at 1000 in strong winds and almost immediately a number of individuals from another team had to turn around due to the extreme cold and windchill.  Whilst movement was difficult we made steady progress until at ~7200m the route entered the icefall of the upper seracs and the fixed line was buried under ice and despite our best efforts was unable to be dug out.  Proceeding into the icefall without a rope for protection in the high winds was not a safe option and the extremely hard decision to abandon our attempt was made.



We spent a few minutes gazing across the panorama of peaks N into Tibet and East to Everest and taking photographs before heading down to the relative calm of C3.  After packing tents and oxygen we headed down to C2, the Sherpas making a heroic carry down to BC to enable us to clear the mountain the following day.



We are all at BC now, and with no frostbite or other ailments except extreme tiredness.  With the mountain stripped we are packing up and heading for Sama Goan later today.

3 comments:

  1. Certainly sounds as though the past few days have been testing and that you guys have done all you could to summit (and some more from the sounds of the stories !) but the mountain has clearly decided it was having its way. While I won't even begin to try and say I understand how frustrated you must be feeling after all the effort you guys have put in over the past year, months and in particular the last few days Mrs A is certainly very glad to hear you and the Sherpas are all back safe and sound at base camp ... and with no loss of parts !.

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  2. Conditions were obviously so difficult and well done to everyone for such an incredible attempt. I can't imagine how disappointed you all feel but from all what the mountain threw at you at least everyone is safe and sound, the sherpas also after the
    avalanch being so close to them. The pictures again were amazing and the depth of snow you battled to get through. Best wishes to all

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  3. Well done for battling as hard as you did and getting back in one piece - that's what counts. Glad to hear there was no loss of pants. (Sorry, Mr G is being frivolous!)

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