Tonight we sit in a basic but comfortable tea house in Chosipani. The small village is named after the stream of cold water flowing through its centre. Dishes, clothes and bodies are all washed in the stream as people pass by. Villages are hives of activity with children, dogs, chickens and ducks criss crossing our path. Meanwhile goats and buffalo are tethered under cover. Chris C. was chuffed to meet a few pigletsalong the way. Corn is being harvested from the fields and in places drying on the ground, as we pass by.
We are steadily rising in altitude following the banks of the river thundering along at the base of the gorge. However we are still only 1500 metres above sea level. The approach to Manaslu begins at 500 metres; we have a long long way to go before we can contemplate being on the summit of an 8000 metre mountain.
The landscape continues to be striking as waterfalls cascade down steep cliffs into the river. Himalayan pines cling to the steep sides, as cloud hangs from the top of the ridges. Although atmospheric, the cloud is barring the views to the high peaks, but for the meantime there is plenty to stimulate the team.
Our journey today took us from Khorlabeshi to Jagat via Tatopani (where there are hot natural springs) and Dobhan where we stopped for lunch. A total walking time of approximately five hours sees us in Jagat where we will stop overnight. The temperatures have dropped a little although one of the Sherpas told us not to rule out another evening of being eaten by mosquitoes. They have definitely had their fill from this team over the last few days.
The team are all in fine fettle apart from the bites. We are being well looked after and have enjoyed washing in streams at the end of each day. The river is flowing too fast to wash in today (if you fall in you’re not getting out) although there seems to be makeshift shower where we have pitched the tents.
The scenery is majestic and we are hemmed in a canyon here in Jagat. There are no longer rice plantations and there are large flag stones under foot which the guide books states is a sign of Tibetan Buddist culture rather than the mainly Hindu culture we have experienced thus far. The landscape is reminiscent of something from Jurassic Park or Avatar.
Jagat is the entry to the Manaslu conservation area and our permit to climb the mountain will be checked before we are allowed to proceed.
The food provided so far has been of a high standard compared to other expeditions and we are walking towards Manaslu base camp with another expedition whose members are from the USA, France, Belgium and the UK. They are friendly enough which is good for the long stay in Base camp where we are told there will be fifteen teams this year.
We will start to slowly gain some height after today as our acclimatisation continues.
The heat and humidity meant an extremely uncomfortable nights sleep for the team, “drowning in sweat” “sauna” and “laying on a hot plate” were phrases coined to the occasion. Nevertheless we tucked into a nutritious breakfast of tomato omelettes with mustard, jam and suspicious peanut butter not to mention litres of pineapple porridge. Weaving our way through the intimidating gorge rising above we were treated to sights of white faced monkeys as the temperature rose.
A tea house stop was required for the melting team mid morning as the humidity took its toll. The Sherpa’s and equally locals finding it hilarious how badly I’m coping with the heat. Two young Nepali girls found us all a great source of entertainment giggling and staring throughout our stop. Half an hour through the gorge we rounded the corner to be greeted by the sight of an outdoor butcher, a family of locals gathered around the carcass of a buffalo effortlessly stripping the animal of all available meat. The self sufficient lifestyle out here is an endless source of wonder, as is the strength of the Sherpa’s both male and female repeatedly overtaking the group.
Lunch was a culinary delight to rumbling stomachs, home made coleslaw, potatoes, fried spam and to the delight of Geordie a garlic chapatti. Clean plates all round with the team happily full, we set off post lunch in a drizzle of rain easing the humidity briefly. The exposed high trail was interspersed with many waterfalls with stepping stones to cross. Both John and Chris A fell foul of the stones ending up with wet feet, whilst Chris C decided on the wading method. Further round the epic scenery never let up as we descended into a small village on the banks of the Buri Gandaki. Much to the delight of local children Rob, Chris C, Geordie and I entertained them with smooth dance moves and cameras. Infectious laughter and beaming smiles of the children had the locals and us smiling ear to ear. Along the trail shortly after, Chris C and I came across some very nimble goats that had scaled a tree to access the lush green leaves.
A welcome reprieve from the afternoon heat was to be had close to the rivers edge with the cool air soothing our aching bodies. Much ground was covered walking backwards and forwards to benefit from this blessing from the Gandaki’s cool waters. A few suspension bridges and scattered housing later we arrived into Kholabenesi , a much needed wash was soon had down at the river, with gasps heard from everyone entering the cold waters. A mountain first aid brief by Rob provided us with entertainment prior to dinner.Rice vegetables, chips and chipolatas were a filling end to a long day, notably the mosquitoes here have eaten extremely well also!
A 6:30 rise in the hotel, breakfast on the table for 7, out of the door by half past for the first day of the trek. Intermingled amongst the donkeys and porters with their loads of 60kg we set off with our daysacks not even 10% of what they were carrying. We slowly plodded away alongside the river, the first obstacle we came across was what can only be described as a home made bridge consisting of 2 longs and some planks of wood to get us across the river we negotiated this by going one by one with the pace increasing as the bridge bounced. We then negotiated a town full of the donkeys which brought us to our lunch stop, when we arrived we were seated and greeted with warm black current tea and soon to follow was the feast consisting of cheese and tomato toasties, salad, beans, and chips. After lunch we then slowly plodded on once again this time gaining some slight altitude and again avoiding donkeys, this being very awkward when there is a single berth suspension bridge to negotiate it was us versus the donkeys, the donkeys won. A bad point we must mention is that the whole time it has been roasting hot and very humid we were sweating buckets, at this point we came closer to the camp site and as we turned the final corner we were blessed with an open air spa, aka pool in the path formed by a waterfall. So it was drop kit off strip down and in for a dip, it was definitely worth the walk for us all to sit in the pool taking in the stunning views and seeing a monkey whilst the nibbling fish gave us a pedicure for free. First night in a tent for the expedition, saying that it will probably be nicer than last nights hotel!
Quote of the day: Oh.... I forgot to put my 30 day pants on!! Im paying the price........Chaffing! (Jon Evans)
An early start saw the team and all the trekking kit loaded into a colourful bus for a 7am departure for Arughat, it took a while to get out of Kathmandu and a cheeky bribe. Ben was mesmerised how the landscape changed from a bustling and congested sprawling city to the rural landscape of Nepal with its terraced rice fields. The group endured witnessing a live goat getting beheaded in the street and a cow taking a nap in the middle of the street. After driving west for 4 hrs the driver and porters stopped for an hour lunch break, 2hrs later we departed in a much smaller but mobile bus. During lunch there was some great entertainment provided by two cockerels fighting and a pair of dogs procreating.
The group telling the driver how to get out of the rut (c) Rob Smith
Several hours of bone jarring tracks then ensued with the group having to lighten the load by walking as the bus bottomed out in the deep ruts. In Jon’s eagerness to get us Arughat he jumped out the bus to push it out of a rut, unfortunately for him his flip flops could not take the heat and broke to cries of ‘Flip flop down’.During one walking stint old Chris, Ben, Brad & Jim went for a bit of off routing, with old Chris’s North Face approach shoes being out performed by Brads Havanna flip flops. The route to Arughat is in fairly bad condition with the monsoon still upon us the route has turned into a rutted quagmire which snakes its way around the side on mountains and through little tea shacks.
Tropical type terrain on route to Arughat (c) Chris Allewell
We arrived in a misty Arughat as the sun was setting all feeling fairly sorry for ourselves after been battered around a bus for the best part of 11 hrs. Tonight we have the treat of our first Dhal Bhat of the expedition the staple meal for these parts. Tomorrow we depart for our first trekking day to Sati Khola which is about 10Km following the Budhi Gandaki Nadi River and should take us approximately 6hrs with all the up and downs as we traverse the foothills.
